Bulgari’s Lucia Silvestri Talks About Excessive Jewelry, Venice, and Journey Plans

Lucia Silvestri poses with fashions on the “Bulgari Mediterranea Excessive Jewellery” occasion at Palazzo Ducale on Might 16, 2023 in Venice. (Photograph by Pietro S. D’Aprano/Getty Photographs for Bulgari)

Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in probably the most epic means. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the great and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to have fun the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one outstanding lady has been accountable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Inventive Director. Recent off the home’s magnificent exhibiting, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.

The theme of this yr’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I wished to ask you when you have a selected reminiscence you like that’s linked to the Mediterranean.

I’ve so many recollections in regards to the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I cherished this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.

How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?

It’s a mix of cultures. Now we have a variety of international locations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mix of cultures. So as an example, and that is an instance of top-of-the-line mixtures [NB: see photo below] — once I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I assumed that it could possibly be the proper mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.

It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, now we have a brand new mixture, and this yr, that is certainly one of these new mixtures. The thought could be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there’s Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mix between two cultures. I like the thought of this mixture and the craftsmanship. It’s actually wonderful. It’s a chunk of artwork.

It’s great. You’ll be able to have a look at it from the entrance and the again.

I adore it, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we lower them in an ideal means, in a Bulgari means. Now, it’s our masterpiece.

My subsequent query additionally pertains to gems, since you’ve all the time stated that gems are all the time the centre of your concepts. What had been a few of your favorite gems to work inside this assortment?

This assortment? It’s very tough… I really like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I really like this one specifically as a result of I adopted the slicing of the gem. In the beginning, once I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not lower, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was serious about a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the simplest ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and in the long run, I satisfied him that this was one of the simplest ways, with these very clean corners. It’s not sharp, it is extremely female, very mild, and so we might take into consideration a really mild, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you’ll be able to put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.

Extremely transformable as effectively. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?

It’s tough, however I really like this one [NB: See below].

Due to all of the mixtures of the mandarin garnets and all the pieces?

Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.

And what was probably the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?

Every bit could be very difficult [laughs]. We wish to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the artistic standpoint. The Serpenti could be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, all the pieces is a problem.

I’m certain you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?

The Palazzo Ducale can be a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was wonderful, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be trying on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and a complete assortment in a single night time.

So we would see a group impressed by Venice sooner or later?

My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, in fact, Rome. I can not overlook that Rome is all the time our first supply of inspiration.

I’m all the time very struck by your very tactile method in the case of designing. After I was watching Contained in the Dream final yr, I noticed that you just picked up the gems, you performed round with it, combined and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?

As a result of I really like what I do. It’s not likely a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel you can really feel the fervour behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with an incredible ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our staff — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the patrons, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the power of the gems, and we can not overlook that we’re working with a present from nature. This reward makes me comfortable, so I’m comfortable to work each time. I don’t work, I play.

And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What will likely be your subsequent journey?

My subsequent journey just isn’t actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I really like Japan.

This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.

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