A sartorial procuring information – 2023 Replace – Everlasting Model


 

Tokyo is among the most various, artistic and stimulating retail experiences on this planet.

Not solely is the town enormous, however every space has a definite really feel and ambiance, mirrored in its procuring.

There are small, area of interest manufacturers in all places, in addition to workshops and artisans. A lot of these are distinctive to Japan, however even the designer manufacturers up their recreation – typically with putting shops and developments.

There are too many to record in full, however these 50+ retailers are our favourites. As with earlier guides, we now have centered on shops which can be just about unique to Tokyo. 

I like to recommend trying up the assorted shops on a map and grouping them into areas: the scale of Tokyo means it might take some time to get from one to a different. Under, nevertheless, we’ve divided the retailers into sections by kind, by curiosity. As a result of I do know not everybody might be concerned with each bespoke tailoring and classic workwear. 

 

 

CLASSIC MENSWEAR

1 Anatomica

There are two branches of Anatomica in Tokyo, one pretty central in Aoyama, and one additional out in Nihonbashi. The latter is my favorite, however if you happen to don’t have time to journey particularly to it, then do pop into the one in Aoyama as an alternative. 

The clothes is moderately completely different to the Paris retailer that readers is perhaps extra acquainted with (and we lined right here) however the mixture of French and Japanese artistic administrators means the garments are an interesting mixture of cultures and types, with berets and conventional Japanese handkerchiefs alongside authentic workwear designs.

2 Bryceland’s Co

Bryceland’s is a distinct segment menswear retailer opened in 2016 by Ethan Newton. It mixes mushy Italian tailoring with workwear reminiscent of chore jackets and denims, and vintage-style items reminiscent of rayon shirts. 

We’ve lined and reviewed a number of Bryceland’s items over time, and they are often discovered on the model’s web page right here. Tailor Anglofilo works out of the again of the store.

3 Ortus and Fugee

Leather-based grasp Naoyuki Komatsu has a stellar fame. He runs a small workshop referred to as Ortus, which does 90% bespoke items reminiscent of day baggage and wallets.

Every part is completely hand sewn – the truth is, Komatsu even goes so far as to make the brass {hardware} himself, crafting these additions small works of magnificence in themselves. Commerce mark designs embody the ‘music bag’ – a briefcase made of 1 piece of leather-based with a brass bar securing the one deal with. Devoted put up on Ortus right here. Additionally excellent, significantly with conventional types of bag, is the older operation Fugee.

4 L&Concord

L&Concord is a shoe retailer specialising in vulcanised canvas sneakers reminiscent of Doek, Pras and Moonstar. However not solely have they got an even bigger vary of these manufacturers than you’ll discover anyplace else, in addition they have manufacturers reminiscent of Asahi, Yomiya and others. Plus there are equipment, socks and baggage. 

It’s just a little out of the best way, however if you happen to’re uptown close to Ginza or Ueno, it’s well worth the detour. 

5 Ring Jacket

Ring Jacket was the primary Japanese tailoring model to realize critical recognition world wide, largely due to the promotion of The Armoury in Hong Kong and New York. There are two shops in Tokyo, in Ginza and Aoyama, and additionally it is stocked in Isetan.

The fashion is Italian and soft-shouldered, though there’s a vary of fashions (a good cause to go to one of many standalone shops moderately than simply Isetan) and so they additionally supply equipment and leather-based items, all with moderately Italian styling. The tailoring is effectively made and good worth, significantly in Japan in comparison with imported Italian manufacturers.

6 Eyewear: Solakzade, Gig Lamps and others

Out on the industrial procuring strip of Omotesando Hills is classic jewelry and glasses specialist Solakzade. The store will not be instantly apparent – it’s on the basement flooring down a small flight of steps – and is a stone-and-gold cavern inside.

Run by two brothers, the vary is eclectic, every little thing from the nineteenth century to the Nineteen Seventies. However everybody there is aware of the inventory inside out, and it’s value speaking to them about types if in case you have even only a passing curiosity in outdated frames. Upstairs is males’s jewelry, however this can be mentioned and accessed downstairs. Devoted put up on Solakzade right here

Additionally value a glance is Gig Lamps Eyewear, in Meguru Metropolis – a couple of metro stops away. And if you happen to’re concerned with eyewear extra usually, Aoyama is the place for it – the primary strip has a giant focus, together with locations like Eye-Van. 

7 Nakata Hangers

It gained’t shock most readers to study that there’s a Japanese model taking hangers to a very excessive degree. Right here it’s Nakata Hangers, a 70-year-old household enterprise that provides most of the nation’s manufacturers and department shops, however lately has additionally centered on promoting significantly high-end items to finish customers.

The store in Minato Metropolis is extra arrange for wholesale than retail, however if you’d like stunning, distinctive hangers on your bespoke tailoring, it’s value a go to to see the merchandise in individual. They’re bought within the UK by Arterton.

8 Union Works and Sarto Ginza

These two are value mentioning as a result of they’re examples of how effectively the Japanese do the issues round menswear, reminiscent of repairs. Union Works has three shops in Tokyo providing shoe restore, but in addition does a plethora of different work, and has a small line of garments and equipment. Sarto, then again, has grown to the purpose of getting a number of branches, altering and repairing every little thing from fits to leather-based jackets, holds trunk exhibits with the likes of B&Tailor, and even has its personal in-house shoemaker.

 

 

WORKWEAR

1 The Actual McCoy’s

The Actual McCoy’s is my private favorite workwear model, and never solely is their high quality unsurpassed, however the vary is big, from leathers to denims to sportswear. Till lately they’d a store in London, however even then it wasn’t as large as this one in Tokyo. It’s downstairs, however don’t let the doorway idiot you – it’s large. 

2 Freewheelers

Freewheelers is one other workwear model on the high of its recreation – extra of a biker focus than McCoy’s, however nice high quality. The store can be charming – you may suppose it’s referred to as Desolation Row from the surface, or Uncle John’s Bait & Sort out, so look out for these names as effectively. 

3 M’Arijuan (D’Artisan)

One other good one is M’Arijuan, which is the house of Osaka-five member Studio D’Artisan and others in that group, reminiscent of Orgueil, which I’ve come to understand since they’ve been at Clutch Cafe in London. 

4 Hummingbirds’Hill

Proper on the nook, this can be a pleasant little multibrand retailer with each repro and fashionable manufacturers – Camber and Chamula, Engineered Clothes and Needles. It additionally has a pleasant choice of classic southwestern jewelry. 

4 Full Depend, The Flat Head, Lewis Leathers in Harajuku

This space of city – Harajuku and Omotesando – has the headquarters of many of the different workwear manufacturers that followers within the US, UK and elsewhere will know from their native stockists. They embody Full Depend and The Flat Head, plus the British establishment Lewis Leathers. 

There’s additionally Time Worn Clothes: much less well-known and never all the time the friendliest, however with a giant following for its At Final denim model and Butcher sportswear. That’s over in Shibuya.

5 Phigvel

An space of city that was new to us on this journey was Nakameguro, and I’m actually happy we made the time to go down. It’s a stunning district, with retailers ranged alongside a canal hung with timber. Our favorite discovery there was Phigvel, which though workwear-influenced, very a lot updates these types and affords them in a clear, fashionable palette.

One other good store within the space for workwear is Put up O’Alls, and there are each males’s and ladies’s Nigel Cabourn branches. 

6 Okura – Blue Blue Japan

Over within the Daikanyama space, the little UES store has sadly closed since we had been final right here (2019). However thankfully the rambling Okura continues to be open. 

The unique flagship retailer for Blue Blue Japan, it’s styled like a Japanese warehouse (kura) and is nice for anybody that loves indigo-dyed clothes. It’s stocked flooring to ceiling with indigo-dyed jackets, T-shirts, sweatshirts and kimonos, each from Blue Blue Japan and cheaper variations made abroad. Look out for items in sashiko material.

 

 

VINTAGE/KOENJI

Classic procuring in Japan is roofed in a separate procuring information, right here. That piece consists of not simply central Tokyo (Harajuku) but in addition Koenji, the vintage-specialist space outdoors the centre, and locations in Osaka and Kobe. 

Amongst my favourites are Berbejin in Harajuku, Safari (all of them) in Koenji, and Acorn in Osaka. I’ll additionally use this part to say a fantastic non-vintage retailer in Koenji, which is Mogi…

1 Mogi

Mogi was based by Terry Ellis, a London-raised designer who lives most of his 12 months in Japan. Finest identified for heading the Fennica model at Beams, Terry lately arrange his personal impartial retailer in Koenji that mixes folks artwork with new and outdated menswear. It’s an inspiration, and price a go to to Koenji by itself. 

 

 

DEPARTMENT STORES

1 Isetan

Department shops in Japan do issues very effectively, from the model combine to the merchandising. However one factor that may set them aside for a lot of readers is the presence of bespoke and made-to-measure clothes, from all world wide.

Isetan is value seeing for the pure department-store expertise, although additionally be sure that to go to the made-to-measure space and look out for any trunk exhibits happening on the time. Oh, and there’s a complete constructing only for menswear.

2 Strasburgo

Strasburgo takes this a step additional. With a extra choose vary, and barely extra sartorial strategy than the opposite department shops, it has a number of branches across the metropolis.

Strasburgo has additionally tried to host extra bespoke makers in home over time, with the Sovereign Home location sadly closing lately. It was the place artisans reminiscent of shirtmaker Masanori Yamagami and tailor Noriyuki Higashi (Sartoria Raffaniello) had been positioned. Trouser-maker Igarashi additionally began out right here.

3 Beams F and Worldwide Gallery Beams

Having mentioned this, on our most up-to-date journey to Tokyo it was Beams that basically stood out. I feel it was as a result of we had been trying much less at bespoke producers, extra at retail normally, and it was a salient reminder of how a lot better Beams does it than anyplace else on this planet. 

Go into Beams Worldwide Gallery and also you immediately uncover a bunch of European makers that you would be able to’t get in London – maybe have by no means even heard of. Sandals from Giacometti, moccasins from Castellano, Paraboot particular editions which can be unique to Japan. It reminds you ways poor English department shops are on all these items.

Beams F is extra tailoring and smarter clothes, whereas Beams Plus is extra informal (and readers is perhaps acquainted with from elsewhere). Whereas we had been there the home windows had been stuffed with a collaboration with LL Bean. 

4 Tomorrowland

In comparison with the shops above, Tomorrowland is extra fashion-focused, however the males’s facet tends to be pretty traditional and have some fascinating variants on menswear staples. It carries its personal model in addition to vary of others, together with Zits Studios, Dries Van Noten and James Perse. 

 

 

FASHION/CASUAL

So, we’re not speaking excessive style right here, or certainly low-end mass-market style. Moderately, this can be a house for craft-based manufacturers like 45R or Visvim that don’t actually fall into traditional or workwear classes – maybe as a result of few locations on this planet do this type of clothes like Japan.

1 45R

45R is an innovator in pure, crafted clothes that always includes natural indigo dye. The items are deceptively easy, uncompromisingly made, and supposed to look classic from the second they’re provided. They’re costly, on a par with designer labels, however all that cash goes into the product and course of. 

The garments could be uncommon, however there are all the time nice denims, tees and bandanas as effectively. I utterly get why some individuals don’t take to the model, however if you happen to like craft, they deserve your time in understanding what they do. There are a couple of retailers in Tokyo, however the one to go to if you happen to can is the flagship Badou-R.

2 Kapital

Kapital is comparable, however rather a lot weirder. There’s typically quite a lot of craft concerned within the clothes, however the outcomes will typically be extra excessive in design and proportion. Personally it’s much less for me, however the model is exclusive and Tokyo has the best expression of it. The principle store is in Shibuya, however Kountry has the weirdest items and the ladies’s store, oddly in a pristine shopping center. 

3 Visvim

Like the 2 above, however dearer and extra fashion-driven. Visvim typically takes inspiration from traditional items of menswear, and there’s an excellent quantity of craft concerned, however there’s a cause the HQ in Nakameguro feels extra like an artwork museum than a store. I’d say it’s positively value a go to if you happen to’re within the space, or just like the model, however I wasn’t personally tempted by something. 

4 1LDK

An fascinating instance of an excellent multi-brand store, which is one thing that’s quick disappearing in the remainder of the world. Largely extra informal, however with nice manufacturers like Auralee and Arpenteur, plus Comoli, Kaptain Sunshine and Studio Nicholson. There are two retailers, each value a glance, in Nakameguro. 

5 Arts & Science

Arts & Science is a small chain of shops in Tokyo based by stylist Sonya Park. It’s an fascinating crossover between Japanese crafts and fashionable, minimal sensibilities, with equipment, menswear and womenswear. Though the clothes providing is fairly small, it’s a good place to seek out uncommon (if costly) homewares and equipment, in easy types and colors. Look out for free linen jackets, wood packing containers and leather-based pouches. Both the Aoyama or Daikanyama branches.

6 Outside manufacturers: Snow Peak, Nanga and everybody else

Strolling spherical Omotesando, one can’t assist however discover what number of outside manufacturers there are. Everybody has a giant flagship, North Face and Patagonia, Japanese specialists like Snow Peak and Nanga. 

The non-Japanese manufacturers typically have merchandise which can be solely out there right here too, or there are labels which can be the results of licensing offers, like North Face Purple Label that’s truly owned by Goldwin, the clothes conglomerate that additionally has its personal retailer. 

 

 

BESPOKE MAKERS

A number of the best bespoke makers of menswear are in Japan, regardless of often studying their commerce in Europe. These are among the greatest, although do bear in mind it’s mandatory (or a minimum of well mannered) to make an appointment. 

1 Shoemakers: Yohei Fukuda, Seiji McCarthy, Marquess 

Japan has an enormous variety of bespoke shoemakers, maybe greater than the entire of Europe mixed. They’re largely younger, working in small workshops, and good worth for cash – although the small dimension can imply there are lengthy ready occasions. Most significantly, their high quality is wonderful, typically excelling these European masters they learnt from.

There are too many to attempt to suggest any particularly, however it’s actually value attempting to see Yohei Fukuda, Seiji McCarthy and Shoji Kawaguchi, the latter working underneath the model Marquess. Extra on them at these hyperlinks, and usually on Japanese shoemakers right here.

2 Tailors: Sartoria Ciccio, Anglofilo and others

There aren’t fairly as many new tailors as shoemakers in Japan, however the high quality of the work continues to be very excessive. They’re largely influenced by the mushy tailoring of the south of Italy, though some additionally educated in Florence or Milan. English affect is felt solely within the older, extra conventional tailors.

One of the best identified is Noriyuki Ueki, who runs Sartoria Ciccio. He educated in Naples and cuts a soft-shouldered go well with with a Japanese degree of precision. Others embody Anglofilo, Sartoria Domenica and Vick Tailor. You possibly can learn extra about them right here.

3 Trouser makers: Igarashi and Osaku

There are a few workshops specialising in bespoke trousers value highlighting: Igarashi and Osaku. Of those two, Igarashi is within the centre of Tokyo and is subsequently simpler to go to. Osaku works from a small city outdoors of the town, and is available in for appointments.

There’s a related degree of precision to their work as there’s with the remainder of Japanese craft, and a give attention to particulars reminiscent of curved waistbands and neat choose stitching. Extra on them right here.

 

 

NON-MENSWEAR

1 Motoji kimonos

These wishing to see conventional Japanese craft in Tokyo ought to contemplate visiting Motoji, probably the most well-known of the kimono makers within the metropolis. Though not one of the work is finished on-site (material is produced all spherical Japan, and tailoring accomplished outdoors the town), the store, its bolts of material and completed kimonos are a digital museum of craft in themselves.

2 Chicago kimonos

The opposite method to expertise kimonos is less expensive – go to a second-hand store like Chicago in Harajuku. There you will notice a variety of pre-owned items from the seventies to the current day, in addition to all the categories and elements of males’s and ladies’s kimono. 

The actual fact there are outer jackets, inside layers and even quick ceremonial jackets, means there’s prone to be one thing for everybody. I purchased a lovely seventies olive silk kimono for £65. 

3 Cow Books and Tsutaya books

Tsutaya is a sequence of bookstores, however the one in Daikanyama is actually beautiful – there are few higher locations to know how a lot the Japanese love printed materials, with an enormous number of coffee-table books and magazines. 

Cow Books, in Nakameguro, is an second-hand bookstore that specialises within the arts and counter-culture works, but in addition has a surprisingly giant vary of style titles, together with outdated copies of magazines like Popeye. When you like magazines, Magnif Zinebocho on the opposite facet of city can be value visiting.

4 Ubukeya knives and Edoya brushes 

Two beautiful retailers which can be shut collectively, specialising in Japanese knives and brushes. As in quite a lot of extra conventional shops, there’s little English among the many workers, however that isn’t actually wanted to know the product, and if you happen to’re after one thing specific then pointing and playacting often do the job. 

 



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